Sunday, July 10, 2016

Sao Miguel: Just Passin' Through

+ADW and I saw and did everything we could in Sao Miguel: we climbed mountains, braved the ocean, walked into the mouth of a (sleeping) volcano... Actually, the entire island is a series of lush volcanic craters so that doesn't really say much other than we're crazy and the people who choose to live there are even nuttier than we are! We stayed at an unassuming modern zen style hotel recently constructed on the north-western coast that boasts quite the facilities; few of which we bothered to get acquainted with--if we wanted spa services, we wouldn't have travelled so far for them.

The Azores boasts a variety of active excursions as well as those for the less actively inclined. For those wanting to get out and about, activities range from water to land and everything in between; there is certainly something for everyone; some of it seasonally dependant such as surfing. For those who are less inclined to trek into the wilderness (so to speak), you'll find that the food and drink is pure and unadulterated--fresh in a sublime sense--it still brings envy (and a bit of drool) to realize that this is the standard; as well, many of the island's landmarks or 'museums*' are easily accessible by car--something I highly recommend for one travelling in the Azores.

*I use this term broadly since I can't quite find the best word to describe places of scientific and historic exhibition, discovery and research.

Instead of organizing my posts in the typical day-by-day adventures I've composed previously, I figured visitors might not be limited only to Sao Miguel; after all, there are nine islands. We start with my list of top 5 must do areas/features for a shorter length of travel on Sao Miguel.

1. Lagoa das Sete Cidades
This is probably one of the most popular image in a Google search of the Azores. These two visually distinctive lakes, located in the western third of the island, are situated in the crater of the civil parish of Sete Cidades and attract visitors and locals alike, to take in the stunning landscape. It's a view that simply can't be captured on camera and I'd say, one of the most breath-taking views I've witnessed in person and there are many look-outs. The views are so amazing that someone thought to cash in on it by building a hotel (Hotel Monte Palace) that overlooks the lagoas but didn't take into account the view is only viable when it isn't covered in fog--which is often--and today, the hotel stands abandoned.

For those looking to head out into the wilderness on foot, day hiking around the lagoas is an excellent way to see the natural landscape. An alternative would be to contact one of the equestrian companies of the island to see if they have any tours on horseback.

Not far from the two lagoas, there are natural thermal ocean pools that are a great trip for (what I consider) the brave: Ponta da Ferraria. The link is quite extensive so I won't go into detail, but stress that this feature is VERY MUCH dependant on weather and time of day. Go at the wrong time and you may be dragged out to sea or smashed against the rocky shores. There is no admissions for the natural pools but the (safe) man-made ones charge bathers.

2. Furnas
For me, this was my favourite area to visit. Not just because there is volcanic activity and a clowder of friendly felines:

A photo posted by Deborah (@my_examined_life) on


Located in the eastern-centre of the island, Furnas features huge calderas, fumaroles, geysers and hot-springs throughout the civil parish. The region is also home to one of the top hotels in Portugal: Terra Nostra Hotel, styled in art deco fashion and built in the 1930s, to attract "monied" visitors. The hotel is also keeper to a stunning gardens ground that is a must to check out (charge admissions). On the other hand, if you don't end up staying in Furnas, you could spend a morning taking advantage of the mineral hot springs--something we didn't feel inclined to do (in this instance).

Instead, we wandered into the parks area of Lagoas das Furnas where we thought we were going to take a brief stroll around the park but discovered a research and monitoring facility of Furnas: Centro de Monitorizacao e Investigacao das Furnas. Much of the island has been heavily burdened by the increase in agriculture practices that put the indigenous flora, fauna and fresh water reserves at risk but the government is taking steps to right poor practices that threaten the unique environment. I highly recommend visiting, in addition to the gated garden (you can get combo admissions to both but just make sure you have enough time to do both and are dressed appropriately).

We also visit the parks where the locals utilize the unique geology to cook food, by volcanic activity: cozidos. At this point in our trip, I was missing my two fur-babies and it was as if fate just knew (as always), and the moment I stepped out of the car at the park, a tortoiseshell kitty happily trots towards me in hopes of getting a hand-out. It doesn't surprise me that stray cats decide to populate this area since it's likely they'll get a meal. There are several restaurants that feature this menu and we visited one of the most well-known: Tony's.



One place we didn't manage to fit into our schedule (and I REALLY wish we did) is the Microbial Observatory of the Azores because I am a proud microbiologist by education, indirectly through my various forays into home fermentation and by work (seeing as many diseases are caused by microbes).

3. Ponta Dalgada
Ponta Delgada is the largest, most populated municipality and administrative capital for the region. If you're looking for some souvenirs and have a little less than a day, you could check out Fort de Sao Bras:



and wander the main part of the city and pier area. If you're looking for a more adventurous excursion, make your way to the pier see if you could sign up for a whale watching outing. This is unfortunately, highly weather dependant and it's tricky to tell from land so if you want to do this, try to book it early and if you need to re-book, there's still time to reschedule. Unfortunately for us, ADW was quite the sad panda since we didn't have that chance to head out. #nexttime


4. Vila Franco do Campo
If you're a history buff, this one would interest you because while Ponta Delgada is the current "capital", it wasn't always the case. Vila Franco do Campo was the main settlement until October 1522 when a violent earthquake shook the region, causing landslides that killed more than 5,000 of the inhabitants--many who were buried alive. The area has since been re-settled but has never regained its prominence as being the primary "capital". That said, it's still worth seeing because from here, you can visit or view (depending on the time of year and your interests) a crater islet about 1km from the south shore with indigenous flora/fauna and a small crater lake where visitors can swim and snorkel.

Bottom of the chapel steps
As we discovered about the Portuguese, they are a religious bunch and one of the most incredible churches we visited is the Our Lady of Peace Chapel, where this chapel is situated high on the top of the hill, providing an amazing panoramic view for any who visit, along with the beauty of the chapel itself. Be prepared for a hike well worth it and don't look back/down until you get to the top so you can be wowed.

There is also a regional cookie/cake made here that is worth trying when you're wandering around and looking or a snack.

5. Nordeste
The eastern third of the island shows visitors a more raw and untamed section of the island--full of death-defying mountain side roads and what appears to be more of the indigenous flora and fauna. Driving out to explore this area is a driver's dream come true with narrow winding roads carved into the sides of the mountains or passing over deep forested gorges.

Farol Ponta do Arnel
A highly recommended stop over here is the lighthouse on the most eastern point: Farol Ponta do Arnel. It's a functional lighthouse that is occasionally open to the public (usually a Wednesday) and worth seeing. The hike down to the house is steep so be sure you're prepared with the right shoes, water, endurance and clothes (hiking sticks help too) because going down is one thing, but coming back up is entirely another. Pack a picnic and you can chill out near the parking lot before or after your visit.

One of my favourite things about the island is the various gardens and look-outs along the roads where you could stop to enjoy the view, the company and a snack. One of the prettiest ones we visited was Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada.

Friday, May 27, 2016

ar·chi·pel·a·go: Azores

+ADW and I are off again! We've elected to travel to the Azores, a set of 9 green volcanic islands in the North Atlantic Ocean. The Azores are one of two autonomous regions of Portugal (the other is Madeira). 


The 3 main cities of the Azores are: Ponta Delgado, Angra do Heroísmo and Horto. All the islands are of volcanic origins but some have not had any recorded activity since being settled here. The first islands were discovered in the early 1400s during the Portuguese Age of Discovery (1415-1542) and helped settled by Gonçalo Velho Cabral. The islands' climate is mild and sub-tropical considering its northernly location but is affected by the Gulf Stream and location relative to continents. Temperature ranges are temperate ranging from 3-30C throughout the year with a distinct "rainy season". The main industry on the islands is agricultural in nature; São Miguel's current agricultural yields are dairy and beef, pineapple and passion fruit and Pico's wine is fantastic.

As any opportunity I have to travel, the top of my travel bucket list is to visit as many UNESCO World Heritage Sites as possible but the two in this area are on the islands of Pico (Landscape of Pico Islands vineyard culture) and Terceira (Central Zone of the Town of Angra do Heroísmo) but we won't be heading there this time... since there is already plenty to do and see on São Miguel.

Check in to see what we are up to, through the Instagram account and I'll be sure to give everyone proper updates whenever I have a chance to do so :)

Wednesday, April 20, 2016

The Mental Game

I used to have way more confidence about going over course work but lately, I've been second guessing myself a lot. I'd ride into jumps that were more of a challenge than previously... maybe with a tighter approach or a higher rail. But, I started hesitating and checking out, last minute. For weeks, that hasn't been an issue as I would sort it out and get over it. Was I nervous? Every time, I approached the "big scary fence" (BSF) and you could see me tense and just second guess myself as I push to go over.

Both my instructors have said that it's mostly a mental game, to get through a course or whatever it is. An experienced instructor can make the assessment about whether or not the rider can actually accomplish the said jump/movement with the horse, so it's really just left up to the rider to get over themselves. The thing is, communication is split second fast so you really need to know what you're doing up there. When +ADW found out that I fell, he knew exactly what happened: I lost my nerve, hesitated and chickened out last minute.

The course work for the day was modest and I started the lesson with really good spirits and felt confident that the course was flowing. The first four jumps were great--I felt in control, knew where I was going and Bonsi followed me right through and it was fantastic. But, coming off the third jump, I knew I was getting nervous about that last jump--first mistake. Second mistake, I started to feel unbalanced and out of control and was panicking about bringing us back together. Third mistake, I checked out mentally and let Bonsi take over. You can see from the diagram below, the sequence of jumps laid out. I started panicking after jump 3. Then, the pink line shows where I deeked out last minute, instead of following through with the purple. I did manage it a few times prior, at the trot but the canter just freaked me right out.


After deeking out at E, I don't know what I was thinking (I wasn't) and we cut across the arena and then I wanted to go right but Bons knew that he simply couldn't fit between the wall and jump at B so that's where we parted ways and I flew into the wall and he continued towards M and C...

I'm physically tenderized and still recovering from the soft tissue damage sustained, when I slammed into the wall with my right shoulder and torqued my left knee. But the biggest challenge has been getting over BSJ mentally. The most recent lesson got me on Ariel and we were doing a couple low key jumps and again, I chickened out with a narrow jump that tests the accuracy of the approach (usually jumps are wide enough that there are few options to avoid them) and while nothing happened, it was definitely a flash of emotions and thought processes. I have gone over and over again, in my head, the approach of that BSJ that unseated me and I know I could have gone over it just fine... if I just committed to it and rode through. It isn't the first time I've had to recollect myself after a messy jump.

My heart wants to do it but my logical brain is repeatedly reminding me "oh no you can't! That's scary." I'm reminded of another part of my life where the goal is long-term and I have to keep my eye on the prize and not get distracted and make any last minute decisions away from my goal. Sure, the "jump" might not be pretty, but I have to try and do it anyway. If it's an epic fail, so be it. I gotta get into the (mental) game.

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

Tomatoe, tomato

I am not a hugger.

The thought of wrapping my arms around another is not my idea of a happy social exchange (a hand-shake will suffice, thank you!). But, the things I've been learning with Bonspiel is the way he prefers to communicate--particularly important for our right sides. Unfortunately for us, we are both weaker on the right side and need work and focus. Meet my new buddy, Bonspiel:

A photo posted by Deborah (@my_examined_life) on


Sheri told me I was gonna work; I wasn't working hard enough and that was the problem. We're talking not hard at all apparently. Horseback riding isn't easy no matter what non-riders will yap about. It's also (as riders know) not so much about what you do with your hands as it is your seat and/or legs.

First, warm-up require more transitional work and bending lines to get us warmed up properly and limber. Exercises like alternating walk to trot, each with a known number of steps while being as precise as possible as well as keeping our impulsion at each transition is key. With a horse like Bonspiel, when things don't go right, it's very clear that it's the rider's botch up because he is trained impeccably to do exactly what he's told. If you don't get that canter just right, that's the your fault. WOMP WOMP. Other exercises include balancing at the trot in a standing position without using our stirrups as crutches and focusing on actual lower leg support to steady ourselves.

It's reiterated that with this horse, it's about support with your legs at every step. "He needs it", Sheri tells me, "you gotta hug and support him so he can do it right. Otherwise you're just dropping him and that's why he falls out of (in this case) the canter". As I pointed out earlier, I'm not a hugger, but I have to learn to 'hug' with my legs--from my thigh to the lower leg without pinching at the knee while maintaining a fluidity through the hip and back. At first I don't really get what she means but when we canter around both in the whole arena and the 20m circle, it is evident when I "drop" him: we see that my right thigh actually is the culprit and that is the part of my leg hug that is dropping Bonspiel and not giving him support to continue to canter around. I do test the comment and pay attention to my leg position and notice that he immediately drops from canter (at the right) when I lose momentary contact with him at the thigh. Unfortunately,  my movement with him isn't 100% and in the canter movement where he is moving down and forward, I am already moving back on "up".

These are all things I had difficulty with when I was riding Ariel and still sorting out what it meant to rider her proficiently. I am seeing that while these two horses require a different "touch", some things will remain constant. I figure it's like learning a language but understanding the different "accents" of those speakers.

Tuesday, March 8, 2016

An Interruption to the Regularly Scheduled Posts...


Hey y'all! I know I've been kind of MIA lately but I haven't forgotten about blogging. I just need to get over whatever it is that is going around b/c I still feel pretty slow. But, one of the things on the internet that has been regularly cheering me up is this little fellow:

มันเวิคจริงๆเมื่อเอากะบะทรายมาทำอ่าง ฟินไหมสังเกตุหาง / ปิดหูกันน้ำเข้า/ enjoy ชีวิตเหมือนมีโซกันนะครับ 
Posted by สำนักงานแก๊งค์เหมียว on Thursday, February 25, 2016

Hope he brightens your day too.